To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Thank you. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Then your low idle problem will go away. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. Nice to meet you. Um, no. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. idles good, runs amazing. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. Capability Range: Advanced port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. What you are experiencing is rather common. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. % = 49 The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Or alternator? Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Definitely not 90. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. It wont fire up. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. Do you have any clue? I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. I keep doing that with the same result. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Thanks, That is an strange situation. I am right back to where I started. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. Comp. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? What an amazing site you have here. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. IAC Pos.% = 0 itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. back to trying to zero down an idle. I guess we can't have everything. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Thanks Again for your help. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. nothing stays steady. Without it you are working in the dark. Also its extremely rich at idle. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. to. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Cheers Darren. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. Chris thank you for the info. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. lower until I turn down the set screw. Thanks for any help. Okay, try my method. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Jump on board now! If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. Clearly, something is changing. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Kind of cuts into forum time. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. I have been able to get it pretty At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. Hope this helps! It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not The distributor was loose. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. However, I have never found that to be the case.
Leo Sun Sagittarius Moon, Virgo Rising, Eczema Friendly Masks, Articles H